A California Rhône-styled red that easily could fool you into thinking it hailed from southern France, this wine displays juicy red and black fruit flavors augmented by peppery, smoky, even meaty secondary notes that give it genuine complexity. It has excellent length and a well-defined structure, suggesting that it should drink well for at least five years. Only 259 cases were produced, so finding it probably will require a special search. Taking the trouble, though, will definitely prove worthwhile. Tasted blind at the Critics’ Challenge Wine Competition.
