Seeing 14.5% alcohol on a Pinot Noir label would deter many consumers because the delicacy and expressiveness of that grape tends to be lost when it gets ripe enough to result in that level of alcohol. But numbers alone don’t tell the whole story. Sure, there’s plenty of ripe fruit speaking here, but there’s also a savory component of earthy mushroom-like nuances that keeps it all in balance. Bright acidity adds freshness and sweet tannins allow for current drinking.
Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (California) Pinot Noir 2009
By Michael Apstein