Dei, Rosso di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) 2019

Having written so-called “progressive” wine lists for more than 20 years, I find it ever more difficult to find authentically light-bodied red wines to list as such.  Here is an exception, and thank heavens, as most of us are eating fewer steaks and more dishes like grilled fish or roast chicken in an attempt to… well, avoid congestive heart failure.  This offers up lovely, lively Sangiovese aromas and flavors of red cherries and berries with a delightfully fresh tang to the finish, but also subtle savory notes that lend complexity and some “bass” to go with all the tangy “trebble.”  Climate change and winemaker over-reaction to “Parkerism” conspire against wines such as this, but thankfully they survive.