This youthful Marsannay rouge nicely illustrates why Pinot Noir is equally good early in its life or with some age — just different. Derey’s 2008 was macerated, with punch downs and pump-overs, then aged in mostly once-used barrels to temper the new oak seasoning. The color is deep and rich, while the low intensity nose is ripe cherry-berry with traces of spice. It’s flavorful, juicy and has medium length.