Domaine Brusset, Cairanne (Southern Rhône Valley, France) 2019

 I’ve tasted wines from this house over many years, but only see them recently on a hit-or-miss basis.  I grabbed this on the fly from a high-end grocery in the Puget Sound area, and it was both utterly delicious and also conclusive proof that the commune of Cairanne was absolutely deserving of the AOC status it was elevated to several years ago from the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages status at which the name of the village is tacked on.  Impressively concentrated and packed with flavor, this is still so expressively fruity that it never comes off as heavy.  And there’s more:  Despite all that black and red fruit flavor, there’s also an undercurrent of emerging savory characters that lend the slightest suggestion of rusticity, which is entirely welcome and keeps this from coming off as a simple Grenache-based fruit bomb.  Compellingly delicious, and though few bottles will survive long enough to prove the point, this will develop in positive ways for a full seven years.