Tasting this Pouilly-Fuissé side-by-side with Domaine de La Garenne’s fine Mâcon wines, you easily see the differences between those two appellations, even though they abut one another in places. Someone clearly knew where to draw the lines. Always a popular Chardonnay-based wine in the U.S., Pouilly-Fuissé has justifiably gained status with the delineation of Premier Cru vineyards. It’s good for the growers there because they get the accolades they deserve. Less good for us consumers who face price increases even with the Pouilly-Fuissé village wines, let alone the Premier Cru. Still, village Pouilly-Fuissé, especially the 2022s, from top producers, like Domaine de la Garenne, deliver lots of satisfaction for the price. This impeccably balanced one combines a touch of creaminess with underlying minerality. It is a fine choice for grilled swordfish this summer.
Domaine de La Garenne, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2022
By Michael Apstein