Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, Rully 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2021

 Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, grandson of the founder of the estate, took it over in 2000 when he was just 20 years old.  My first and only experience with their wines — it certainly will not be my last — was at a tiny restaurant in Cluny, in southern Burgundy.  Once again, a crisp lively white with good depth accented a dish that should call for a red — a hearty stuffed leg of guinea fowl.  Rully, a top village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is rapidly becoming a fine source of both red and white Burgundy as prices of Côte d’Or wines often now have three figures.  Ponsot’s vibrant Rully delivers a seamless combination of citrus-infused fruitiness buttressed by stony firmness.  Its riveting profile was the perfect foil for the gamey bird, but it would be equally enjoyable with grilled swordfish.