Domaine Jean Masson & Fils, Apremont (Savoie, France) Jacquère, Vieille Vigne Traditionnelle 2023 ($21, Thomas Calder Selection)

The appellation of Apremont lies in the Alps of eastern France. The village lies in the shadow of Mont Granier. The terroir of Apremont was altered completely in the year 1248 when a massive landslide occurred, shearing off the side of Mont Granier and inundating the valley and villages below. It was some 300 years later that vines were planted in the rocky detritus of the landslide. Today these spare soils yield the characterful wines of Apremont. Jacquère is the grape grown here, sometimes known as Roussette. Most often it makes a floral, light-bodied white. In the hands of Jean Masson & Fils, it becomes a richer and weightier wine. The 2023 Apremont from Masson offers opulent fruit, layers of complexity and a rich texture. It has forward aromas of ripe peach, pear and baked apple backed by floral and honey nuances. The intriguing range of flavors combines the peach, pear, and apple fruits with hints of cream and spice. Its rich texture reflects the high quality of the fruit sources and the skill of the winemakers.
92 Wayne Belding