Domaine Lécheneaut, Morey St. Denis (Burgundy, France) 2009

 Domaine Lécheneaut is a name to remember for high quality Burgundy.  About 25 years ago the sons, Vincent and Philippe, took the reigns from their father, Fernand, who founded the Domaine in 1950, and started to bottle their wines instead of selling them to a négociant.  Tightly wound at this stage, this Morey St. Denis has all the glorious ripeness of the 2009 vintage buttressed by firm, yet polished tannins and excellent acidity.  Like a volcano, the dark bitter black cherry signature note of that village’s wines slowly bubbles as it sits in the glass.  If you’re planning to enjoy this authentic expression of Morey St. Denis now, it should be decanted an hour or so in advance.  Otherwise, put it in the cellar for a decade.  Lécheneaut’s Morey St. Denis shows that talented producers can make stunning wines from vineyards that carry only a village, and not premier cru, appellation.