Domaine Louis Michel, one of my favorite Chablis producers, has put out a masterful array of wines in 2022, at prices that are quite reasonable, especially given the current Burgundy market. Michel has been a longtime (since the 1960s) advocate of eschewing wood barrels for either fermentation or aging. Their wines are pure, precise, and crystalline. Take this Montée de Tonnerre, one of the region’s top Premier Crus. A distinct flinty and mineral-y character accentuates its energetic profile. Drink now or let it rest for a decade. Michel’s wines evolve beautifully. There are lots of them in my cellar. Need I say more?
Domaine Louis Michel et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2022
By Michael Apstein