Despite the location of the vineyard, Le Grand Bussière, in the village of Fuissé, the appellation is Saint-Véran because Fuissé (the village) spans two appellations, Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran. (Who ever said that Burgundy was simple to understand?) This edgy Saint-Véran, with its cutting stone-y quality, shows why that appellation ranks above Mâcon in prestige. The lengthy finish in this sophisticated white Burgundy is particularly beguiling.
Domaine Merlin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022
By Michael Apstein