Dominio de la Vega, Utiel-Requena (Valencia, Spain) Bobal 2014

 Anyone who doubts that Bobal can make great wine should taste this, which will bring an abrupt end to the argument.  A single-site wine from a 1.5 acre plot that was panted between 1913 and 1920 (prior to the arrival of phylloxera), this was fermented in open-top wood fermenters prior to aging in new Allier barriques for 18 months.  That new oak shows on both the nose and palate, but it is enveloped by gorgeous fruit benefits from the spiciness and grip lent by the wood without ever yielding center stage.  The fruit shows a striking sappy sweetness but no hint of over-ripeness and the acidity is excellent, lending freshness and lift.  The aforementioned sweetness has nothing to do with residual sugar, which is low at 2.5 grams per liter, just enough to help counterbalance the wood and tannin in the finish, which are simply swept away in sensory terms, though they still lend structure to the flavors and, presumably, age-worthiness to the wine.  I tasted this at a lunch in a limestone cave with no internet connectivity, and the first thing I did upon emerging was attempt to order it, which is possible in multiple countries in Europe but not at any retailer I could find in the USA.  The producer claimed it is being sold for $60 in Texas, so of course I’ll be planning a trip to Texas.