Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2008

 The 2008 vintage in Brunello was variable, but did produce some excellent wines.  And this is one of them.  Cinelli Colombini has cut back on the amount of oak aging and I think the wine benefits because it’s more expressive — more Brunello.  Aromas of fruit, spice and earth pour from the glass.  It’s a dark, brooding wine with supple tannins and considerable finesse.  Its breeding is apparent in a long and sumptuous finish.