“I am her” is a phrase often spoken by winemaker Amy Butler in the tasting room when people come in wanting the name of the sublime talent that produced what happens to be in their glass at the moment. I suspect that this wine — no disrespect to others that she shepherds to delightfulness — might just put an end to that question in the very near future. An absolutely first rate offering that Ms. Butler says was made in her head years ago has come to life at last after finding the perfect combination of site, clone (Wente 4) vintage and barrels. I’m no psychoanalyst, but if this is the sort of thing dancing around in Amy’s head, we are in for some more amazing things from her. Riveting acidity tempers a creamy texture, delivering oodles of lemon crème, apple and soft, beautifully integrated spice notes, all of which come together in a blossoming finish that just won’t quit. Sold in sets of three, six or twelve — because one simply isn’t enough. I’d go for the case, as this one’s good for the long haul. Brava!
Dorothy Jean, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay 2016
By Rich Cook