Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2023 ($19)

This wine is a sleeper because it sneaks up on you – a testament to good fruit and basic, but very well-directed, winemaking. Close your eyes and forget about the flavors, concentrating on the structure, and you could mistake its metallic minerally and tart acidity as being from a cru Chablis. A friend who tasted (after I did) echoed my own thoughts. “It tastes likes Riesling,” he said, “…but it’s a subdued Riesling in flavor.” In this case, that’s a good thing.
93 Roger Morris