Drouhin Vaudon, Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($60, Dreyfus Ashby)

Back in the 1960s, Robert Drouhin, head of the venerable Beaune-based firm of Joseph Drouhin, had the vision to buy vineyard land in Chablis when the area was in crisis. At the time, many thought he was foolish, but today it’s clear he was a visionary. With almost 100 acres of vineyards in Chablis, Drouhin now is a major producer there. Importantly, they have a separate winery, Vaudon, there so the grapes do not need to be transported back to Beaune for vinification. The Premier Cru Vaillons, like all of Drouhin Vaudon’s Chablis wines, have the Drouhin elegance that allows the flinty minerality of the soil to speak clearly. The excellent 2022 vintage has imbued Chablis with a touch more depth and ripeness without losing any of its racy energetic character. Drink now or cellar for five to ten years and watch magic evolve in the bottle.
93 Michael Apstein