Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012

Gevrey-Chambertin, since it is a large and well-known appellation, is filled with both promise and peril for those seeking top-notch wines with a “village” moniker.  Some producers rely on the stature of the appellation to sell their wines, whereas the committed ones want to fulfill the potential the appellation has to offer.  Put Dupont-Tisserandot squarely in the latter category.  Their 2012 is a terrific village wine, in part, no doubt, because it comes from old wines.  That Dupont-Tisserandot is a consistently excellent producer doesn’t hurt either.  It delivers a slightly earthy and leathery quality combined with dark fruitiness that I associate with Gevrey-Chambertin.  Still youthful, with good concentration and fine tannins, it is not overdone.  It’s a great combination of power and elegance.