Dutton-Goldfield, Marin County (California) Pinot Noir 2017

 It’s easy to associate Marin County with the sprawling suburbs visible from the highway north of the Golden Gate Bridge, but growers are increasingly taking advantage of the farmlands to the west, closer to the cooling Pacific Ocean.  The Devil’s Gulch vineyard is a steep, terraced plot, winding around the curves of the hills.  Owner Mark Pasternak first planted vines there in 1980, and today he is one of the guiding lights for newer vineyards, many of which he manages or consults for.  The 2017 shows a mix of dark and red fruits on the nose, but is brighter on the palate, with touches of redcurrant, strawberry and raspberry.  Medium-bodied, it’s a bit juicy, with lively acidity.