Elias Mora, Toro (Spain) 2012

 This is an astonishing wine, but not for the faint of heart.  It is hugely impressive, with “huge” being the most important element in that clause.  Still nearly black in color and opaque in pigmentation at 6 years of age, it is phenomenally rich and concentrated.  Aromas of baking spices and subtle woodsmoke are quite appealing, but then the sheer intensity and power of the wine just kick down the door and the wild ride begins.  Those who think Tempranillo (or Tinta de Toro, as it is called in this region) just makes light- or medium-bodied wines will be set straight permanently by this bottling, which as actually “thick” in texture, as in milkshake thick.  Flavors of blackberries, cassis and black cherry are very intense but not remotely obvious or over-ripe, and though there’s a lot of bracing from oak, the wood accents definitely overwhelmed by the fruit’s sheer strength.  You could enjoy this now with decanting and a grilled steak, but it will be better in another 5 years and undoubtedly can hang on or even improve for a full decade from now.  What a wine!