Elvio Cogno, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2017

 I’ve been studying Barolo and Barbaresco more intently than any other wine regions in the world over the past decade, traveling there more than a dozen times, and the growing site or “cru” of Ravera in the commune of Novello has risen more in reputation than any other over that span.  Several prominent vintners (e.g., Vajra) have purchased vineyard plots, and other premier estates (e.g., Vietti) bought in quite a bit earlier, but this is “home field” for Cogno — if you’ll accept the sporting term in this usage.  Although the 2017 vintage from every site and every estate has a tough act to follow after 2016, this is a stunningly beautiful Barolo and an amazing take on Ravera.  It shows a level of intricacy in a reserved and delicate style that I’d call “Burgundian”—except that it is arguably even more intricate and delicate than top Grand Cru Burgundy from the Côte de Nuits.  Think this is hyperbole?  Take your pick, try them side-by-side, and you’ll experience my vindication by this wine.  Subtly floral, reserved in its fruitiness, ultra-soft in tannic feel, and almost ethereal in overall impression, this is by far the best Barolo I’ve tasted from the 2017 vintage to this point, though buyers who buy for weight and power rather than subtlety and beauty should look elsewhere (leaving more for me).  I haven’t been able to taste this against the 2016 from the same cru, but this is probably the lighter of the two despite being from a hotter year, thanks to a good decision to get the fruit off the vine early, while it could still make a gorgeous wine.  Which this emphatically is.