Estancia Uspallata, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2017

 This striking Malbec reflects the talents of winemaker Alejandro Sejanovich, who runs this project along with Jeff Mausbach, both formerly with Bodega Catena Zapata.  The wine also reflects extraordinary fruit, which definitely deserves its due, but the styling of this wine is what’s most remarkable about it.  Quite frankly, my affection for the Malbecs of some of Argentina’s producers actually does down as the price goes up, as many over-load their prestige bottlings with overt oak that isn’t really needed in an already-robust wine.  This is a superb case in counterpoint, showing just a whiff of oak (only 22% new) that is very deftly tuned to offer support without obscuring the wine’s wonderful purity and depth of fruit.  Nearly black in color and almost opaque to the rim, this looks like a hammerhead wine in a glass but shows lots of nimble subtleties and excellent acidity once one actually sniffs and tastes it.  Sourced from Quebrada del Minero, Mendoza’s single highest vineyard at 6,500 feet, it displays lovely floral scents and subtle spicy accents that work beautifully with the wine’s blackberry and black cherry fruit notes.  Extraordinary stuff.