Unlike many contemporary Pinot Noirs (and dare I say especially ones from California) Failla’s does not seduce by fruit sweetness, nor does it coddle the palate with silkiness. More rustic than elegant, with straightforward flavors a little reminiscent of brandied cherries, it has a somewhat gnarly texture that seems to demand good pork chops or tomato-based pasta.
Failla, Sonoma Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2011
By Marguerite Thomas