It seems at times as if Sicily has more indigenous grape varieties (whichever ancient explorer brought them) than the rest of Italy combined, and we keep seeing them pop up on labels. Many of these we first encounter, without always knowing it, as blending grapes, as Perricone often is with Nero d’Avola. This selection of the grape is both delightful and a touch disappointing. At almost 8 years old, it has lovely barrel and spicy fruit aromas too often neglected in wines follow by flavors of cassis and blackberry. But for fruit lovers, the wood may be too much background noise accentuated by the wine’s light body and lightness of tastes.
Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Perricone 2016
By Roger Morris