Fontana Livia, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2010

This wine was so intensely expressive in aromatic terms that I wondered whether the scents had been juked up with wood, and needed to return to it for a second look after working through another set of wines.  Renewed scrutiny showed a marvelous wine that draws almost all of its overwhelming appeal from beautifully ripened fruit rather than cellar tricks.  The fruit is almost succulent in its sweetness, yet there’s an equally prominent savory streak that recalls cured meat and sautéed porcini mushrooms.  The tannins are quite gentle and rounded in effect, allowing the wonderful fruit to persist deep into the long, lovely finish.