This wine is a shock on first sniff: I swore it was bretty, but winemaker Matthew Rorick, who thought the same, swore he’d had it checked by a lab and it isn’t. What that means is that if you like funky, expressive, non-fruit-forward wines, here’s one from a part of California not known for them. St. Laurent is an Austrian grape that the Riccis planted 90 vines of; it’s believed to be the only planting in California. In 2008 a different farmer harvested half by mistake, so there are only 11 cases of this wine. Pity, because it’s really interesting, with dark cherry fruit and a gamy, menacing low note. I’d compare it to a Mourvèdre for its gaminess and aroma. 14.1% alcohol.
