Fort Ross, Fort Ross-Seaview (Sonoma County, California) Fort Ross Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2022 ($44)

This is the second vintage of this wine, and it’s coming on line in style – made by Jeff Pisoni in the fleshy and crisp style where I think Chenin Blanc sits best, delivering apple, pear and peach aromas and flavors that are distinctive and lingering. Though the variety tends to be thought of as less serious than some other whites, this example shows that it can hang with the big kids.
91 Rich Cook