François Carillon, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2017

 Aligoté is the only white variety permitted in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, and there’s no doubt that it plays second fiddle to Chardonnay.  However, its potential is much closer to Chardonnay than one would guess from most bottled renditions, as it rarely gets top-notch placement in vineyards or treatment in cellars.  (As an aside, this same fate results in Pinot Blanc / Bianco being seriously undervalued.)  Carillon, by contrast, has really devoted some serious effort to this wine, as evidenced by very alluring topnotes of grilled nuts and oak spice, which in turn show that Chardonnay didn’t monopolize all of the good, new-ish barrels in this excellent cellar.  The fruit is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, with ripe stone fruit flavors edged with zesty citrus acidity.  Quite expressive and very pure regardless of the wood influence, this is straight-up delicious, and at $27, an indisputable bargain.