Frederic Dumoulin, Uvrier (Valais, Switzerland) Cornalin 2016

 My first impression of this fruity wine was that it was like Beaujolais with—sonically speaking–the bass turned up.  And that coinage rang true to my dinner partners, and held up over time as well, including time at the table.  The fruit is reminiscent of red berries but with a black raspberry note too, and though there’s little overt evidence of any wood, there’s just enough grip to suggest that some may have been involved (though grape tannins and wood tannins can be tough to distinguish in fruity, young wines such as this).  Like so many of Switzerland’s wonderful wines, this is really light enough to just sip with pleasure, but shows sneaky power when asked to rise to the challenge at the table.  This isn’t going to win any prizes for complexity, but it is blood delicious and very, very broadly useful.