Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling 2016

 A sensational Riesling that might well be the best dry release I’ve ever tasted from this fine producer, this is a complete and compelling wine.  The aromas are hugely expressive, with floral and fruit notes beautifully intertwined, and those impressions echo on the palate, with crackly acidity and wonderful slatey minerality joining the party.  On top of all this, the aromas and flavors are actually transcended by the excellence of the wine’s texture, which is magically light and substantial at once, and also wonderfully layered and energetic.  I have no doubt that this will become even more complex in the years ahead, but it is so exciting right now that nobody could be blamed for cracking into it immediately.  By the way, the "GG" designation means that this is essentially a Grand Cru wine, though the designation is accorded by a private association of high-end producers, and doesn’t have legal status in the way that Cru designations do in France.  However, nobody could taste this wine without concluding that the "GG" was entirely fitting based on its marvelous complexity and elegance.