Fritz Haag, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Trocken 2020

 This wine is very complex, beautifully balanced, and just flat-out delicious.  Climate change is scary as hell, but this is the sort of wine that was almost impossible to make for early enjoyment in the Mosel as recently as a decade ago, but warmer temperatures have throttled back acidity, and this is wonderful right out of the starting blocks.  Truly dry, but still with the flavors of fully ripe fruit (recalling nectarines and apples), this is neither overly austere nor sweet-seeming.  Rather, it is coherently ripe but still very fresh, with lots of slate minerality lending complexity to the convincingly delicious fruit.