Grüner (as its fans like to call it) is the most important white wine in Austria, but it is becoming recognized, and planted, in other cool climates both in Europe and the US. While it is sometimes made in a fleshier style, this pretty Pennsylvania version is classically delicate, with hints of white pepper and other spice, as well as light stone fruit flavors. One reason its fans appreciate Grüner Veltliner is that is a food friendly wine, assuming the role of a meal’s supporting partner rather than trying to shove its way into the leading role.
Galen Glen, Lehigh Valley (Pennsylvania) Grüner Veltliner 2018
By Marguerite Thomas