Generaj, Roero Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) 2016

 This winery is nicknamed “the General” in Italian, after the founder from the 19th century, who wasn’t a general but was very influential in his time.  Beppe Viglione runs things here currently along with his daughter, and they represent the 6th and 7th generations, respectively.  The facilities seem attractive and unpretentious, but I can’t speak to the technical aspects of the winemaking equipment because we spent the duration of my visit tasting and talking.  Both the wines and the conversation were wonderful.  I worry that my two new friends will be displeased that I’m featuring a wine that their US importer chooses not to take, but the winery only sends about 8% of the production to the USA, and the importer should know that passing over this wine is, um, insane.  Usually, I avoid telling other people how to conduct their business, but this is an exception, as both the 2018 and this 2016 were fantastic.  The fruit is still coiled with power for further development, but this current release is already extremely complex, with savory notes (especially bottle bouquet) already evident and extremely appealing.  Once fermentation was completed, it weighed in at more than 15% alcohol, but doesn’t show the slightest hint of heat, and the combination of complexity and integration here is superb.