Ghost Pines, Napa and Sonoma Counties (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

 It’s as polished, sleek and muscular as a show horse—but no worries, there isn’t a hint of barnyard or any other funky element in this wine.  In fact, were it not for the gentle sweep of chewy tannins giving it traction on the finish, it would be almost too perfect with all that lush ripe-fruit character.  This Cabernet is a good example of the important role that tannins, and for that matter acidity, play in making the difference between terrific wine and the so-so stuff.  This is especially significant in these days, when so many wines lack character because they are overly soft, smooth, sweet and extracted.  Happily, Ghost Pines Cabernet hasn’t crossed into that territory.