Gianni Gagliardo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2017

 Gagliardo is a top-notch producer located in the village of La Morra, though the fruit for this Barolo normale bottling could have been sourced from anywhere in the legally delimited territory of Barolo.  Be that as it may, the fruit was of high quality, and so too was the vinification, as this has turned out to be an exceptionally stylish and age-worthy wine.  Even when scrutinized immediately after the cork was pulled — prior to aeration and double decanting — it showed lovely but subtle floral aromas (violets more than roses) and very fine balance on the palate between nicely ripened fruit and taut acidity that will keep this fresh as it evolves for a decade — and a solid, worry-free decade at that.  Don’t worry about the taut nature of the acidity if you are lacking in either patience or a cellar; just recognize that this is a medium-bodied wine that would now be paired best with a dish of comparable weight (meaning, for example, veal piccata rather than, say, braised osso buco).  One last word:  This wine is an object lesson in how quickly top vintners in Barolo and Barbaresco are adapting to a warming climate.   .