I’ve tasted more than a few bottles of Favorita over the years, as I’m fortunate to travel frequently to the area around Alba — which is the lovely small city that is the orbital center for Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. This may be the most deliciously fun rendition I’ve ever tasted. Remarkably fresh despite being from the 2021 rather than 2022 vintage, there’s no reason to wait for the latter, because this is still just barely frizzante (fizzy) with gentle tiny bubbles that provide extra lift to the flavors of apples and ripe pears. There’s nothing quite citrus-y in the flavor profile, but the wine’s acidity makes this wonderfully refreshing, so think Granny Smith in relation to my “apples” analogy. The wine isn’t tart, and is actually medium-bodied, but the freshness is so striking that this is a marvelous aperitif or partner for very light appetizers.
Gianni Gagliardo, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Favorita 2021
By Michael Franz