Gilles Copéret, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2021

 The wines from Morgon, another of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, tend to be firm, rather that fleshy.  With its chiseled profile, this long and lively one from Copéret fits that mold.  A savory accent of subtle smokiness complements its engaging austerity.  This would be a good choice this fall and winter to balance the richness of a succulent cut of meat.