Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2008

One of the striking things about Grgich Hills Estate is how they excel across their whole range. Some wineries do well with one or two varietals, but Grgich gets them all right. This Merlot, quite serious stuff, is a perfect example, marrying succulent black fruit with minerality. Concentrated without being overdone, its grandeur extends into its long and reverberating finish. For those who bash Merlot, try this one. It’s a marvelous example of how that varietal, in the right hands, can be the base for great wine. This is not “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” before dinner. But rather, "I’ll have this one with a steak."