Medium-bodied yet displaying genuine depth of flavor, this is a very impressive rendition of an often misunderstood varietal. Yes, Cabernet Franc can yield dark, deep, almost unctuous wines (as it sometimes does in the vineyards of Bordeaux’s right bank, notably in Pomerol); but it also can produce lighter, more delicately fragrant wines, as it does in the Loire Valley. That latter style is in evidence here. The wine displays a smooth, supple character, with an enticing bouquet that hints at something metallic or stony in addition to ripe fruit. All in all, it’s extremely graceful — and delicious. (Tasted blind at last month’s International Eastern Wine Competition.)
Grovedale Winery, Pennsylvania (United States) Cabernet Franc 2008
By Paul Lukacs