Gruet Winery, New Mexico (United States) Brut Sparkling Wine NV ($15)

Who would have imagined that one of this country’s finest sparkling wines is made in New Mexico! The back story: Gilbert Gruet grew up in Bethon in France’s Champagne region, where, in 1967, he was instrumental in creating a Champagne co-operative. He traveled to the southwestern U.S. with his family in the early 1980s and, for reasons still unclear to me, he decided to have a go at it with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Engle, New Mexico, about 170 miles south of Albuquerque. The climate is apparently perfect, with broad swings in the temperature between day and night, which allows the grapes to ripen during the heat of day and maintain their acidity during the cool night. Their NV cuvée, a blend of Chardonnay (80%) and Pinot Noir, is consistently delightful. The current version delivers apple-like fruitiness, good weight and a supporting spine of acidity. It actually goes well throughout a meal of Mexican food.
91 Michael Apstein