Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($24)

Goisot, one of the top producers in the Côtes d’Auxerre, an up-and-coming appellation just west of Chablis, makes an extraordinarily consistent range of wines from that appellation. Their name on the label is a guarantee of quality. And because the appellations of Côtes d’Auxerre and Bourgogne Aligoté are less well known, the wines provide superb value. This Aligoté combines vibrancy inherent to the grape with an engaging depth and minerality. This riveting wine would go well with tuna tartare, or would you believe it, grilled duck breast.
92 Michael Apstein