Gulfi, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2014

 Wines from this producer are quite individuated, so don’t even bother trying to get a grip on a “house style.”  This one is crafted entirely from Nerello Mascalese, but the finished wine is at least as “savory” as it is “fruity,” so it comes off as an expression of the vineyard and the cellar much more than the grape variety.  The fruit is quite ripe and evident, but riding alongside it are punchy suggestions of newly tanned leather and a faint hint of volatile acidity (which is definitely below the “flaw” threshold).  Teetering between modern fruitiness and a more traditional profile, this is great fun to drink.  Lots of fine tannins will enable it to work well with food, but if you open it up before dinner, it is unlikely to last long enough to make it to the table.