Milla Handley believed in Anderson Valley in Mendocino County before most of us had even heard of it. Her winery was bonded in 1982. She was farming grapes organically before doing so became fashionable, and her vineyards were certified by CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) in 2005. She has 13-plus acres of Pinot Noir, 12-plus acres of Chardonnay, and three-plus acres of Gewurztraminer planted in her estate vineyard. Anderson Valley is a great place for Gewürztraminer, especially in the hands of these folks. It is bone dry with all the beautiful aromatics and exotic flavors of the grape variety. A portion of the fruit is fermented in stainless steel tanks to capture fruity flavors and aromas, while the remaining portion is fermented in neutral oak barrels for extended contact with the yeast lees, adding weight and creamy mouthfeel. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation (i.e., the conversion of malic acid, as sensed in green apples, to lactic acid, as in butter), so the wine is crisp and mouthwatering. The result is a wine that boasts alluring aromas of lychee, peaches and ripe pears with notes of dried roses. When tasted, the wine’s opulent flavors of pear, melon and touch of grapefruit zest are brightened by bright, citrusy acidity. If you think you don’t like Gewürztraminer, I highly recommend giving this one a try, perhaps with roast chicken or a selection of charcuterie.
Handley Cellars, Anderson Valley (California) Gewurztraminer 2018
By Rebecca Murphy