Jancis Robinson in her encyclopedic Wine Grapes (Harper Collins 2012) reports that Mvarodafni is likely the Greece’s most well-known grape because of the sweet, fortified wines made from it. Well, this is my first introduction to it, and Haritatos Vineyard stunning one is definitely not sweet, nor fortified. Not particularly opulent, which gives it extra points in my world, it marries delicate fruitiness with wonderful savory notes, and finishes with a nuance of bitterness. Mild tannins lend support without disturbing its suave texture. It’s not a wine for sipping as an aperitif, but it definitely worth uncorking with red meat, pasta, or even fish in a tomato sauce.
Haritatos Vineyard, Slopes of Aenos PGI (Greece) Mavrodaphne 2021
By Michael Apstein