Orange wines have gained in acceptance and popularity over the last 10 years, although I still hear people ask if Orange wines are made from oranges. They originates in the area of Albania and the Republic of Georgia where It is believed that as early as 9,000 years ago humans began to cultivate wine grapes and make wines. No stainless steel tanks or French oak barrels were available, but they had clay amphorae, in which they placed grapes, seeds and stems and let the natural yeasts on the grape skins do the work, no additional ingredients. Two generations of the Schrock family have been making wines traditional Austrian wines, and today Heidi Schrock is in charge. She specializes in sweet wines made from traditional varieties like Weissburgunder, Furmint, Grauburgunder, and Welschriesling. Imagine my surprise when I was introduced to an amphora wine made of Auxerrois Blanc grapes. It spent over a year in amphorae on the skins with no filtration or sulphur dioxide during winemaking, although a small amount was added at bottling. It is a beautifully crafted wine by a very skillful winemaker. It has a dense, dusty orange color and subtle aromas. It is about texture, not forward juicy fruit, bone dry with a bit of roundness on the palate and the mouthfeel of supple tannins. Take your time and enjoy how the flavors and texture evolve in the glass. Serve it with a juicy steak.
Heidi Schrock & Söhne, Neusiedlersee (Neusiedlersee-Huggeland, Austria) Auxerrois 2020
By Rebecca Murphy