Hess, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2016

 This wine offers a lot to like, but all the proportions are just right, so there’s also exactly nothing to dislike.  Genuinely light in pigmentation and body but quite generous in aroma and flavor, it starts with an attractive whiff of vanilla but no overtly woody scents.  The flavors are fruit-driven and only very slightly sweet, but the sweetness is fruity rather than sugary, suggesting both Bing cherries and red pie cherries.  There’s just enough tannic grip in the finish to lend sufficient structure, but this still offers an appealingly soft ride.