Hillick & Hobbs, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Dry Riesling 2021

 Paul Hobbs, one of the most prominent winemakers in the world, needs no introduction.  His project in the Fingers Lakes is unique for him because he started it by establishing a vineyard instead of collaborating with growers as he has done elsewhere.  With this project, which he is undertaking with his brother, he is returning to his ancestral home in upstate New York.  This, his third vintage, outclasses the previous two, both of which I thought were outstanding.  This is somewhat unsurprising, given what he has undoubtedly learned from the two preceding vintages, the exciting 2021 is even better.  A piercingly — in a nice way — dry texture allows minerals to explode on the palate.  Its laser focus extends into a long finish that just reinforces its stature.  A delicate and alluring bitterness in the finish allows it to stand up to virtually anything on the table.  This electrifying wine may be this country’s finest dry Riesling.