When it comes to US winegrowing regions, Vermont is not often mentioned. There is wine made here, however, and experiments with new grape varieties are reaping rewards for wine lovers. The broad Lake Champlain Valley provides good vineyard sites, and the development of new, cold-hardy grape varieties has shown promise for this long-standing agricultural region. Shelburne Vineyards has been leading the way to increasing quality for Vermont wines and their 2022 Iapetus Subduction red is evidence of red wine potential for the state. The University of Minnesota established a grape breeding program years ago with a goal of creating varieties that could withstand the frigid temperatures of northern winters. They have created a number of cold-hardy grape varieties that can be grown for wine production in Minnesota and other areas where traditional vitis vinifera grapes cannot survive. The Marquette variety was released for commercial production in 2006 and has proven its worth in northern climes. The 2022 Iapetus Subduction undergoes a native yeast fermentation and is a fine rendition of Marquette (plus 10% Petite Pearl). The aromas show a combination of black and red fruits with blackberry, raspberry and plum scents enhanced by elements of pepper and herbs. The juicy fruits expand nicely across the palate with layers of plum and berries backed by the herb and spice tones. It’s a fine example of the quality one can find among perhaps unfamiliar cold-hardy grape varieties.
Iapetus / Shelburne Vineyard, Vermont (United States) 2022
By Wayne Belding