A paradox, the traditionally framed Il Poggiolo Brunello marries the ripeness of the 2015 vintage with a lovely austerity. Not a blowsy wine, it combines dark cherry-like fruit with a core of minerals. Importantly, especially for the vintage, it has great acidity, which imparts a wonderful vivacity to the wine. Firm, not aggressive tannins, add structure. It impresses with grace rather than opulence. Surprisingly engaging now, its real stature will emerge in another five years or so.
Il Poggiolo, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
By Michael Apstein