Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2009

The Michael Mondavi Family Estate, who produces this wine, was founded after the family lost control of the Robert Mondavi winery. Though Michael, one of the sons of legendary winemaker Robert (and an extraordinarily talented winemaker in his own right), is involved in a series of projects, such as the wines under the Isabel Mondavi label, his son Rob Jr. is the winemaker. The initial sip suggests the focus will be on sweet ripe cherry-like fruit. And it is. But with time, a hint of earth notes emerges and a whiff of smoke comes out in the finish. It’s refreshing to see someone focus of the delicacy of Pinot Noir and not try to turn it into a “big” wine.