J. de Villebois, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2021

 This producer has been turning out some of the Loire’s finest wines during the past few vintages, including multiple bottlings from different sites and soils in Sancerre, less expensive Touraine-designated wines, very fine Pinot and Rosé, and this terrific Pouilly-Fumé.  It is wonderfully fragrant, with scents of ripe fruit as well as more traditional grassy and herbal undertones.  The flavors are expressive and generous, with melon and orchard fruit notes edged with citrus-like acidity that sharpens the delineation of the flavors and freshens the finish.  There is some subtle but still notable minerality too, making this a complete and exemplary rendition from this relatively small appellation across the Loire River from Sancerre.  Seriously:  Commit the name J. de Villebois to memory, as this house is among the fastest-rising stars in all of France.